Products mentioned in this Article
Pimp Your Bunker
Part I: Basic Modelling
by Mike Haught
Having had a hand in designing the new line
of bunkers, I was extremely excited to have a crack at pimping one out with all
the bells and whistles that were too difficult to include in the model. I have
a passion for both bunkers and terrain modelling, so the chance to combine the
two was one I couldn’t resist. I gathered several of my favorite bunker books
and set to work.
Check out the Anti-tank Pillboxes box set here...
|Obviously, with your own bunkers feel free
to put in as much or as little work as you like. Some players maybe perfectly
happy with them straight from the box while others will have fun adding some or
a lot of extra detail.
Step one of any project is research. This can be as basic or as deep as you like. As a historian, I tend to go a little nuts with gathering information and quickly found myself buried under a pile of photos, plans, and documents. I took elements from all the various photos I had and made a short list of the types of things I’d like to see on my bunker.
- Camo netting
- Rebar hooks
- Rubble and debris
- Rebar lattice exposed by damage
- Rust weathering
- Defilade wall for the backdoor
- Concrete ‘apron’ in front of the embrasure
- Earthen build-up against one wall
- Period patriotic graffiti
With all these modifications, I quickly realised this would be a major project and weighed the pros and cons before proceeding. I decided to tackle it all because these bunkers are the centerpiece of my fortification armies and as such demanded my full effort!
Above: The bunker straight out of the box.
Phase 1: Modelling & Painting
For this article series I’ve broken up the process into several phases.
The first phase, featured here, was construction and basic painting.
Then I look at basing, followed by the final phase with a little
1x Bunker & Defilade Wall (BB121)
22 Gauge (0.643mm) Wire
Fine Basing Grit (GFS019)
Medium Basing Grit (GFS021)
Vinyl Spackle (Rapidfilla)
GF9 Hobby Glue (GFM110M)
|Notes on Supplies:
The bunkers, basing grit, and superglue can be found at your local hobby
store or on our web store. I found the bandage at the local $2 shop
after a fruitless attempt to score some loose gauze at the pharmacy
shop. The vinyl spackling (or rapidfilla) and wire can be found at any
Step 1: Exposed Rebar
The first thing I
tackled was the most difficult and time-consuming bit: the rebar. This
involved drilling out some holes in the bunker where ever I wanted the
rebar to be exposed.
Bunkers were constructed with lattice of
rebar, or steel bars, and filled in and over with concrete. There are
essentially two reasons why rebar would be exposed on a bunker. The
first is damage. These bunkers are presculpted with battle damage, and
there are several large chunks of concrete missing. These are perfect
places for adding some mangled rebar. I drilled out some holes at
regular intervals and glued some short pieces of .22 gauge wire to
simulate the shattered rebar lattice. I added a little spackling around
the rebar to simulate dust and debris buildup.
The second reason for the exposed rebar was intentional by the builders.
The vertical bits of rebar were left a bit taller than the final
structure and bent over to shape hooks. These were used to fasten
netting and other camouflage to the bunker. I added these all along the
defilade walls on both sides as well as along the edge of the bunker
itself. I didn’t want to completely cover the bunker in netting, so I
left a portion at the back free of holes.
I then bent small bits of wire into fish-hooks and glued them into the holes.
Step 2: Camo Netting
The next step was to add netting to the bunker. The purpose of netting focused less on hiding the bunker from ground troops and more on concealing it from aerial photography. Therefore netting is more prevalent on the tops of bunkers, as evidenced by many historical photos. However, this bunker has some damage on the top and I wanted to make sure that the netting didn’t cover it up. So I applied netting to the sides first, then put some on the roof.
The bandage I used was quite elastic and dense, so I had to cut the edges off and pull it apart slightly to achieve some transparency and gaps in the netting. After working with it until I was satisfied with its look (this took me a couple of tries) I soaked the bit of fabric in a 50/50 mix of PVA glue and water. I let absorb the glue for a few minutes and then carefully applied it to the bunker. Once it was on the model I could play with it a bit to open up some gaps and tease out a ‘draping’ look. I added small piece after small piece of the bandage fabric until I was happy with the look and then tackled the top. I tried to tease the netting on the roof to look like it had been blown back from the damaged parts of the top.
Then I added a very small amount of basing grit to the roof and around the damaged rebar areas to simulate debris from the bomb blasts. I then let all of this dry overnight.
Step 3: Painting
The next step was to paint the bunker. I began with giving the whole thing a basecoat using grey spray paint. I then applied a heavy drybrush of Bunker Grey (FWP304) followed by a 50/50 mix of Bunker Grey and Buff (VP976), and then finally a very light drybrush of 25/75 Bunker Grey and Buff, making sure to hit all of the edges including the bullet and shell holes.
The Netting & Details
Next I basecoated the netting with a heavy drybrush of Battlefield Brown (FWP324), followed by highlights of Wool Brown (FWP328) and light Comrade Khaki (FWP326).
Once the netting was finished I went back and touched up the debris bits on the netting with Bunker Grey and a 50/50 Bunker Grey/Buff highlight. I then painted all of the rebar bits first with Battlefield Brown then with Dark Gunmetal (FWP480).
I finished up by painting the embrasure Worn Rubber (FWP302) and the back door Dark Gunmetal.
Washing & Finishing
Once all the paint had dried, I applied a thin black ink wash to the whole bunker followed immediately by a thin brown wash. Once this had dried I went back over the model and added another 25/75 Bunker Grey and Buff highlight, but only at the extreme edges to bring out the corners and fractured concrete.
With the washed dried I sealed the bunker with a matte varnish and step one was done.
- Grenaider Green (CWP211)
- Bunker Grey (FWP304)
- Buff (VP976)
- Battlefield Brown (FWP324)
- Wool Brown (FWP328)
- Comrade Khaki (FWP326)
- Dark Gunmetal (FWP480)
- Black and Brown Washes can be found in the Flames Of War Utility Set (QPS02)
Last Updated On Monday, June 22, 2015