Multi-Media Models: Part One - Plastic Components

Multi-Media Models: Part One Plastic Components with Evan Allen With the recent release of the new plastic Panther series and Panzer IV Ausf J track and components sprues it’s a really good time to look at what’s involved in assembling and even modifying multimedia kits and models.  You’ll be pleased to hear that these are just the first in another bunch of new sets that will be making an appearance over the next wee while, and all of them are designed to make your life a little bit easier and give you even better detailed models along with plenty of choice. The one piece plastic tracks, with more and better detail than the metal ones, are possible due to the use of slide tool technology where multi part steel mould tools can create three-dimensional details without having to resort to using a bunch of smaller and fiddlier bits glued together instead. Learn more about the Master Modeller, Evan Allen here... Left: Evan, kicking it old skool.

The plastic sprues also mean you won’t have the need to sometimes get rid of excess metal flashing, sort miscast parts or even have the odd missing piece.  The ability to modify and even make scratch-built models will be enhanced as some enterprising modellers have already shown is possible with a little thought. Learn more about the Panzer IV J here... Right: The Panzer IV Ausf J assembled using the new plastic components.

Below: The plastic Panzer IV Ausf J track sprue.	Below: The plastic Panzer IV Ausf J Components sprue.

Add the heft and crisp detail of the resin hull and turret components and you end up with great gaming models with plenty of opportunity to add detail and personalise them. Drilling out the plastic gun barrel ends and exhaust pipes are just some of the enhancements made even easier for example, such simple things but very effective visually. Left: An example of a drilled out muzzle brake on the 7.5cm KwK42 gun of the Panther.

Plastic Parts Plastic doesn’t mean though that there is no need for checking and clean up of parts.  It always pays to make sure you use clean sharp tools for working with plastic as blunt cutting tools will make a mess of even hard polystyrene plastic, and are more dangerous to you the gamer and modeller. Right: Tools of the plastic modelling trade.

Tip: Don’t throw away the plastic sprue once the components have been removed, you can use the old candle trick to make radio aerial lengths that will be bendy and almost indestructible. Also lengths of the sprue can be used for jobs such as support the Panzer IV Schürzen to help give some extra strength hidden away underneath. The left over sprue is very handy to have around for all sorts of odd jobs.

I’d recommend you use a side cutter to remove components from their frames to help reduce the clean up required, and they’re safer and quicker than a knife.There will sometimes be slight mould lines that are easy to clean off by scraping a sharp knife blade held at 90 degrees to the plastic part gently along the surface, this will shave off any slight raised lines but be careful not to remove any detail! It’s better to do this in several, gentle, runs rather than risk pressing too hard first time round.  This technique will also clean up the sprue attachment points where the plastic flows through the mould tool after you’ve removed the parts from the sprue. Left: Using a hobby knife to gently remove any mould lines.

Tip: When drilling plastic, or any material for that matter, always make a guide or pilot hole first to stop the drill bit from moving from where you want it. Sometimes a small knick with the end of a knife blade is all you need, and cover the surrounding area with a piece of masking tape so that if you do slip then you won’t mark the surface. The masking tape will also help stop resin from breaking or shattering when being gently drilled out – especially useful if you need to drill out some extra magnet holes.

Below: Drilling a pilot hole for a rare-earth magnet.	Below: Drilling the correct hole size for the magnet.

After clean up, and before any glue is used, always, always check fit the parts to be joined and make yourself satisfied that the fit looks how it should, you’ve got the correct orientation and the right part is being used! And also think about the next step or part in the sequence to be added – is any other adjustment required? Once you’re happy then it’s time to add glue, proper polystyrene cement is the best choice for hard plastic to hard plastic joints and it will literally melt and weld the parts together so be careful how much you use! It can also be a bit fumy too so some ventilation is a good idea.

Below: The importance of dry fitting components before final assembly cannot be stated enough.

Tip: Have some Blu-Tac or tape handy to help hold parts in place while the glue sets, even use some of the plastic sprue frame to help keep things aligned and stop them from moving.

Below: Using Blu-Tac to hold the side shields of the Möbelwagon in place while the hobby glue cures.

Join me again next week as I explore the nature of the resin components used in creating Flames Of War miniatures. ~ Evan. Read all about resin components in part two here... Read all about metal components in part three here...